LED Chandelier v2

I’ve managed to get hold of another chandelier…. this seems to happen quite a lot now.

I want to make it moveable but at the moment I’m torn between 3 options.

Option 1

Leave it as mains powered, fit some flickering LED bulbs and 10m of white artic flex.

Points

  • This works great for in my house and in larger tents at festivals
  • Does NOT make it waterproof. for smaller tents and outside
  • Requires mains power
  • Single on/off switch
  • Only options would be flickering flame or static
  • Really easy to do

Option 2

LED RGB Battery powered, single power and control unit. Some sort of LED strip with a single IR receiver.

Points

  • This works great for in my house and in larger tents at festivals
  • Does make it waterproof. for smaller tents and outside
  • Doesn’t require mains power
  • RGB options
  • Single remote control to operate the whole chandelier

Option 3

LED RGB Battery powered, separate power and control. Individual RGB lights in each of the bulb holders.

Points

  • This works great for in my house and in larger tents at festivals
  • Does make it waterproof. for smaller tents and outside
  • Doesn’t require mains power
  • RGB Options but not in sync
  • Might be a faff to get each bulb changed

Circus Sign

I want an old style circus light in the sitting room above the door. It would be good for it to be removable so that it can be taken to festivals etc.

Here’s my Pintrest board…..

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/Iceni_Design/circus-sign/

Here’s a video idea with cardboard….

Here’s a more wooden design…

I like the raised letters with the lights but I’d want it in a single board to lift on/off.

I’m currently wondering if I can replace the cardboard with for-sale signs to make it more durable. mount it on thick ply.

I like this font, I’m thinking that the main letters will stand out and be lit, while the flourishes will be painted in gold paint.

https://www.1001fonts.com/showboat-font.html

I’m thinking that the height, including the backing board, can’t exceed more than 310mm.

For the backing board I like the multiple rough plank look, in a matt black with a decorative frame. This can be done with ply or a solid wood.

My next step will be sourcing the lights and trialing the 3D letters. I think I’d prefer to 3D print them if possible…. another argument for me getting a 3D printer!! I can’t bend wood that tight, I don’t have the metal work skills and cardboard will be to flimsy.

I’ve ordered these lights for £6, I chose USB powered as then I can plug them into a main adaptor, battery pack or easily sort out a google home switch.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001191985614.html

I’ve found a better more simple font to use as well…

https://www.dafont.com/circus.font

There are 40 bulbs are the string and I’m going to string them around the outside of the sign rather than within the letters. I’m figuring that I leave a border around the letters deep enough for a frame and the lights. I drill holes for the lights in the backboard with slits from the outer edge to fit the wires. The ligths would be held in place with hot glue and the slits covered in moulding to frame the outside.

I want to stand the backplate off the wall by a few mm to allow for the wiring and the USB connection .

Line the printed out bits of A4 against a meter rule and tape them together…. I can print out as many of these as I need to get the different cut-outs for the different colours.

Disco Kitchen

Another slightly ridiculous project, I had some badly wired under counter lighting. The cables were hanging down and they were just irritating. So time for an upgrade.

I found this kit on AliExpress for a few quid.

As I wanted this in three separate sections rather than one continuous section I needed to cut and rewire it.

As always I decided to overcomplicate things and make it modular, so rather than simply soldering on wires, I soldered on connectors to either end and made some cutome extension cables to the correct length.

My soldering is improving…. this is an example before I slid another layer of heat shrink over the whole lot to stop the different wires separating further.

The kit came with an overly complex controller that features a lot of preset colours and fades.

The final set up….

Side Drawers

Yet another roadside find. It needs a lot of TLC but I’ve got plans.

This is the paint I’m thinking of using:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/rust-oleum-universal-furniture-paint-chalky-natural-charcoal-black-750ml/171gv

These are the handles I’m going to use:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32891395361.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.33654c4drPsaUI

Fixing the side panels

The first step was to fix the side panels. This was fairly straightforward as the indent was quite deep so I could just cut some 3.5mm ply to size and fit the panels over the existing sides.

The nicks and dents I was going to fill but I think I’m going to leave them as-is to let it be slightly beaten and aged.

Painting

OK so I made a stupid decision, at the moment of buying the paint I changed my mind and went for some blackboard paint. It turned out to be waaaaaaay too think and in painting it on I was losing all of the detailing on the moldings. So I removed all the paint that I had applied, let everything dry and then decided to spray the piece instead.

I had this lying around so I tried this and it looks great…. now I have to wait for more to arrive as I’d used most of it already on the Kraken Lamp and Dolls Head Lamp.

Kraken Lamp

Roadside find that I couldn’t walk past made into something I’d actually keep.

This is how I found it. I checked the wiring and all seemed fine. Tried it with a bulb and it all worked.

First step was to remove the glass, sand the surface to help the paint adhere. Then spray paint it matt black.

I missed photographing the next step for some reason! I ground the surface of the glass, with a dremel to remove the floral pattern and to frost the glass. I knew that I wanted to use a flickering bulb and they really need some extra diffusion to help the illusion of being a flame. Slow and steady is the trick with the dremel, it took me around 2 or 3 hours just to frost the glass and I only chipped one of the bent over lips when rushing at the end.

Last step was to freehand the tentacles in a black acrylic paint. With the light behind it took a couple of coats to get a constant matt black.

The photos don’t do it justice so I will try and sort a video out.