The first step was to fix the side panels. This was fairly straightforward as the indent was quite deep so I could just cut some 3.5mm ply to size and fit the panels over the existing sides.
The nicks and dents I was going to fill but I think I’m going to leave them as-is to let it be slightly beaten and aged.
OK so I made a stupid decision, at the moment of buying the paint I changed my mind and went for some blackboard paint. It turned out to be waaaaaaay too think and in painting it on I was losing all of the detailing on the moldings. So I removed all the paint that I had applied, let everything dry and then decided to spray the piece instead.
I had this lying around so I tried this and it looks great…. now I have to wait for more to arrive as I’d used most of it already on the Kraken Lamp and Dolls Head Lamp.
Roadside find that I couldn’t walk past made into something I’d actually keep.
This is how I found it. I checked the wiring and all seemed fine. Tried it with a bulb and it all worked.
First step was to remove the glass, sand the surface to help the paint adhere. Then spray paint it matt black.
I missed photographing the next step for some reason! I ground the surface of the glass, with a dremel to remove the floral pattern and to frost the glass. I knew that I wanted to use a flickering bulb and they really need some extra diffusion to help the illusion of being a flame. Slow and steady is the trick with the dremel, it took me around 2 or 3 hours just to frost the glass and I only chipped one of the bent over lips when rushing at the end.
Last step was to freehand the tentacles in a black acrylic paint. With the light behind it took a couple of coats to get a constant matt black.
The photos don’t do it justice so I will try and sort a video out.
I found a broken table by the side of the road. I wasn’t planning on making a table but the base I found was cool and I obviously need more projects.
The original table top was junk but I didn’t need to do anything to the base or legs other than buy some extra bolts.
I wanted a thick heavy table top so it was off to Bristol Wood Project to have a look what reclaimed timber was available. I ended up with some scaff planks. the first thing to do was to roughly sand down the edges and then glue them into a single ‘sheet’ of wood. I’m not too bothered about having gaps and visible seams in the final piece so I’m not taking the time to square off the edges on a tablesaw or something like that.
I don’t have any clamps big enough to hold the scaff planks flat and squeeze them together so to keep them flat I built a couple of jigs out of some scrap wood.
Once the glue was on there I used a few ratchet straps to squeeze the plank together.
I added on a couple of chunks of wood and screws on the bottom for extra strength. This could probably have been skipped as the wood glue on its own should be strong enough but I have a tendency to over engineer everything so why stop now.
Once I have a stable sheet of wood its time for sanding. LOTS of sandingI started at 60 grit and went down step by step to 240 grit.
Next step was the burning!
I wasn’t trying to seal the wood, just to pick out the grain.
My assistant really enjoyed the burning.
Next step was the wood stain. I used a light oak stain with 3 coats top and bottom.
Then it was 3 coats of polyurethane top and bottom to protect the wood. I think that I need to practice this before using it again as the finish wasn’t quite as expected and I think the coats I applied were too thick.
Assuming that you have a plastered ceiling then the neatest way to do this involves lifting floorboard in the room above. This is my cunning plan so far, there are easier ways to do it but this should provide a safe and secure suspension point.
The advantage of using a cross member between two joists is that you can get a crossmember of appropriate width for drilling the hole for your eyebolt. You don’t want to drill a hole directly through a thin joist to accommodate your eyebolt and weaken the joist itself! With any luck this method will also not result in lots of holes drilled through your ceiling as you aim for a joist or crossmember blindly from below.
Lift floorboard above where you want the suspension point.
Drill a pilot hole, mid way between to joists, down to check you are in the right place in the room beow.
Drill a hole through a beam to use as a cross member. The cross member should be shorter than the joists to allow space for the top of the eyebolt and the nut(s).
Install a crossmember between the two joists over the pilot hole.
Drill through the pre-drilled hole in the crossmember and through the plaster into the room below.
Pass the eyebolt up through your shiny new hole.
Place a large washer or reinforcing plate over the end of the eyebolt to further spread the load.
Install at least one nut preferably 2 with one of them being a lock nut
Tighten each nut in turn while someone in the room below holds the eye in the orientation that you are hoping to achieve.
Before refitting the floorboards above consider adding an access hatch so you can check on the suspension point easily. You’re less likely to check if its hard to do!
Make sure it is a nice fat one that is stainless steel and forged. Read the Crash Restraint article linked above for why you need one of these and not a cheap one.